Back from a ten-day sojourn in Louisiana, I can’t stop talking about a perfect B & B, Maison Madeleine, just south of Breaux Bridge, in the heart of Cajun country. Steps from the shores of Lake Martin and the departure point for world-class swamp tours (I actually found myself wondering if the huge sleepy alligators languidly sunning themselves were Disney World papier mache until one slapped its tale and slid into the water), the exquisitely restored Creole Cottage (c. 1840) is also within easy walking distance of the Lake Martin bird sanctuary, a haven for nature lovers. Not only is hostess Madeleine Cenac extraordinarily gracious, she has pitch-perfect taste, and produces fabulous breakfasts, featuring the farm-fresh eggs laid by her personable chickens.  If you’re in the neighborhood, this is the place to stay. maisonmadeleine.com

Although it lacked the unique charm of Maison Madeleine, the Big Easy accommodation at the Loews New Orleans Hotel was also first-rate. This former bank building, re-done to reference the city’s West Indian heritage, offers particularly spacious suites and rooms, many with a bird’s eye view of the bustling Mississippi River. From the moment of check in, staff makes a point of greeting you by name.

In fact, a deep sense of Southern courtesy defined this visit, much more so than when I last visited in 2001.  The city has survived “the Storm”, as locals call it – one day and one person at a time –with very little help from anyone, particularly the various levels of government. In that process, they seem to have accepted that their fate is in their own hands. As a result – to an outsider at least and one who didn’t venture much beyond the French Quarter and Central Business District – they have really built their sense of community.

Store clerks, cab drivers, restaurant staff –everyone I came in contact with as a tourist was more than willing to go the extra mile in a way I’ve rarely experienced anywhere in the world.    Tourism is the lifeblood of the city and the people understand that their future depends upon the individual travelers and convention delegates that come to savor New Orleans’ unique offerings. The music, food and architecture provide the stage, but the people know that moving forward they play the crucial role in the city’s eventual success. And if my experience is any standard, they are doing a great job.

Speaking of food –oh my, so many wonderful restaurants and so little time. Still, I did manage to enjoy a few great meals and excellent bottles of wine.  Naturally, there are a few indigenous delights every visitor should try –muffuletta and po’ boy sandwiches immediately come to mind.   In case you didn’t know, muffuletta is layered salami and other Italian meats and cheeses, topped with an olive salad and served on crusty Italian bread. Although a little goes a long way, if you’re going to go for it, sample the wares at the Quarter’s Central Grocery, a local institution for over a hundred years.  Po’ boys, supposedly developed by restaurateurs sympathetic to striking transit workers in 1925, generally consist of deep-fried (this cooking technique is ubiquitous throughout Louisiana), meat, seafood or vegetables on soft-centered French bread. My favorite version is at Acme Oyster and Seafood House, an oyster and shrimp version that begs for a plate of grilled oysters as an accompaniment. The hustle and bustle atmosphere is authentically gritty New Orleans.

There are many great places to eat in New Orleans and I certainly did my best to try them all. My spirit was willing, but my body was weak so here are the highlights.

Couchon, a rustic Cajun-inspired restaurant in the warehouse district, certainly justifies all the buzz.  If you can’t get to any other restaurant in the city, this is the one to visit.  Chef Donald Link (of famed Herbsaint) grew up in Cajun country and, in partnership with Stephen Stryjewski, features dishes reminiscent of these rural roots. Having diligently eaten my way around Cajun country I can say without the slightest doubt, the food is way better here. Fortunately, I dined with six other “foodies” so we ordered one of almost everything on the menu and passed the plates.  What a great experience it was, washed down with a very nice Cote du Rhone. Country ham with fresh lima beans, pork with turnips and real cracklins, deep-fried alligator, wood-fire roasted oysters, pork ribs with waterrmelon pickle and soft –shell crab. Just writing about it makes me want to return for an encore. Although I’m not as committed to nose-to-tail eating as some of my friends, the fried rabbit liver was a huge hit with just about everyone else.

La Provence, a splendid field-to-table restaurant, which isn’t even in New Orleans, but in Lacombe, an hour north of the city. It was purchased by celebrity chef John Besh in 2007, with a view toward having his friend and colleague Rene Bajeux run it.   Chef Rene grows and raises much of what is on the menu himself, from Berkshire pork to freshly laid eggs, and heirloom beets. There is a smokehouse on site and, house-made charcuterie will soon have pride of place on the menu. www.laprovencerestaurant.com

John Besh’s New Orleans flagship August was another highlight. It has a great wine list, impeccable service, and interesting offerings such as lemonfish, a Louisiana specialty, which is a dense fish, reminiscent of monkfish. A salad of luscious heirloom beets (I also enjoyed a slightly different version at La Provence) spiked with Allan Benton’s cherry wood bacon and topped with quail eggs is also worth mentioning.

In my opinion, every trip should offer at least one real surprise.  No one wants to be a know-it-all resting on their laurels. So I was particularly pleased to discover there are actually people in Louisiana who are serious about making wine. Taking the idea of terroir to its ultimate destination Pontchartrain Vineyards, just north of Covington, about an hour north of the city, is producing very respectable white table wines from Blanc du Bois grapes. (How perfect is that, Blanche?) The vines grow 125 feet above sea level and reflect co-owner John Seago’s interest in producing wines that will compliment Louisiana’s strong food culture.  They are also producing some reds at the winery, but I wasn’t able to taste them.

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